SimplyAbuDhabi XLIX

The scale of this particular work makes its construction all the more remarkable. Standing approximately 205cm high and 128cm wide, the composition is dominated by an immense bouquet emerging from an elaborate chalice. Yet its size is almost secondary to the detail. Look closely at a single flower and hundreds of individual decisions become apparent. Threads shift subtly in colour to create the impression of light falling across a petal. Tiny stitches change direction to describe folds and curves. Layers of silk build upon one another to create physical depth. A rose is not simply represented by embroidery; its petals appear to fold outward from the picture plane. Elsewhere, densely stitched flower centres consist of minute loops and knots, while leaves are constructed from carefully changing greens that mimic the natural variation of foliage. Natural silk provides much of the colour and texture, complemented by metallic bullion and gold couching. The result occupies a fascinating territory somewhere between textile, painting, jewellery and sculpture. Then there are the stones. The lower section of the composition becomes increasingly jewel-like as the eye reaches the elaborate chalice. The documentation records more than 5,000 carats of semi-precious gemstones, including jade, emerald, amethyst, garnet, topaz, turquoise and moonstone alongside natural pearls. Some are faceted; others are smooth cabochons. Rather than being attached as an afterthought, they are surrounded by intricate embroidered settings. Silk and metallic threads effectively become miniature bezels, turning sections of the textile into something resembling jewellery on an architectural scale. Large green cabochons are surrounded by smaller coloured stones. Turquoise contrasts with deep purples and warm amber tones, while pearls punctuate the complex geometry. Viewed at close quarters, individual sections could almost be mistaken for historic pieces of jewellery. Move backwards and those thousands of details merge once again into the chalice supporting the flowers above. Simply Abu Dhabi | 143